Rosie Underwood explores the magic of ancient wisdom in modern times, amongst the Sahyadri Mountains.
As I lie in the arms of an aquatic bodywork therapist in a pool overlooking the jungle, deep in the Sahyadri mountains, I am told, ‘truly surrender’. While immersed in water—floating, gliding, rolling, weightless and dependent on nothing—this seemed to be precisely the formula I needed to maintain the illusion that I am no longer merely a human in an earth suit. Maybe an ungraceful angel? Or maybe even a baby in a womb!?
I surface from this Watsu treatment, fighting away happy tears, reassured by my therapist Pooja that the feeling was normal, and to move slowly. A total reboot for the senses. Dharana at Shillim really is a one-of-a-kind. An eco-friendly, a magical microcosm of peace, joy and treatments that truly have to be experienced to be believed.
As a travel journalist and retreat host, I’ve been lucky enough to explore the planet in search of the people, places and formulas to help humans feel true vitality, something I believe to be everybody’s birth right. But every time I come back to India, I’m quickly reminded of how the Eastern mindset is lightyears ahead of the Westerner’s need for speedy accomplishment and attainment; making the East one of the most impactful parts of the world to retreat to. I could see it and feel it as I found myself rushing to Yoga at 6:30 in the morning. As one of the staff scooped me up in a golf buggy, looking at me perplexed, they said, “no hurry, no worry mam”.
The concept of time across cultures on our planet is something that has always perplexed me. India, and especially Dharana reminded me instantly of the difference between Western individualism and Eastern collectivism. In India, I always feel entwined and interconnected with everyone around me, whereas in London for example, I feel the need to be independent and almost self-contained. I get applauded for being ‘busy,’ but how much is that ‘strength’ actually serving my nervous system?


It turns out, not very much. After a consultation and tests with my personal Ayurvedic Doctor and physio, I found out I was deficient in some key minerals needed for healthy bodily function, as well as a healthy mind. My right hamstring needed some serious restoration and the left side of my neck needed to be released because it was holding so much tension. So, to my delight I received daily treatments in a bid to get me back into balance. From Acupuncture, oxygen therapy, reflexology, deep tissue and hot stone massage, sound therapy, pranayama (breath work), lessons in Vedanta on a mountain (Vedanta translates to culmination of knowledge) all situated in 2500 acres of Dharana’s Pristine landscape.
One morning, after stumbling across the property’s own vegetable garden and what looked to me like a baby tree plantation, I discovered from Alain, my Ayurvedic doctor that the retreat was born from a strong conservation program through the Shillim Institute. They were busy replanting native trees from the jungle, guiding guests to forest bathe through the mountains dispersed over 350 acres.The team at Dharana is not only busy bending over backwards to bring guests out of fight or flight and back into vitality and rest, but also working to restore the leopard population. In addition to feeding guests seasonal local produce from nearby farms, they also source from Dharana’s own gardens. On top of that, the slow and mindful Ayurvedic approach to cooking ensures every mouthful is harmonising for your body and delicious to taste!
The ritualistic nature of science meeting spirituality, advanced, cutting edge wellbeing diagnostics married with the 5000-year-old Ayurvedic Eastern practices and treatments, set to totally transform the physical, non-physical and metaphysical, mind body and spirit, whatever you want to call it, they heal it. It blew my mind and cracked my heart wide open.
Dharana at Shillim’s 5 pathways to Conscious Being
Achieving the true sense of Dharana (deep concentration and awareness) will help you navigate your life with peace and purpose. Inspired by these five elements.
1) Preventive Medicine: Focusing on proactive healthcare and early detection to prevent future health issues.
2) Physical Restoration: Focusing on rejuvenating your body through multiple treatments and therapies.
3) Healing Nutrition: Focusing on wholesome, organic foods for overall healing and wellness.
4) Emotional balance: Focusing on combating anxiety, stress, and emotional challenges through physical techniques and therapy.
5) Spiritual Harmony: Focusing on the connection of the self and the universe.