How to use Retinol: The Miraculous Ingredient to repair your skin

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is used in cosmetic and dermatological products due to its powerful properties for improving skin health and appearance. It is one of the most studied and effective ingredients in skincare.

Found in several skincare products, creams, gels and lotions, retinol has gained popularity in recent years due to its ability to reverse signs of ageing by diminishing wrinkles. Retinol can also be used for a number of skin conditions, including acne. A popular misconception is that retinol is suitable for all skin types.

You might be surprised to find that there are several factors that a dermatologist will consider before recommending retinol products to a client. If you are still deciding whether you should use retinol or not, then one of the best ways you can make sure that retinol products are truly for you is by speaking to a dermatologist.

We decided to speak with Dermatologist Dr Luis Diego Sevinsky, a Medical dermatologist with his own practice in Argentina. We asked Dr Sevinsky about retinol, how to use it and most importantly, who should use it.

Q&A with Dr Luis Diego Sevinsky

What is retinol used for?
Retinol has several benefits for the skin, especially for treating certain dermatological issues and improving the overall appearance of the skin. Some of its main benefits include:

1. Improves skin texture: Retinol accelerates the cell renewal process, helping to smooth the skin, improve its tone, and make it look more radiant.
2. Reduces wrinkles and fine lines: It stimulates collagen production, which helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
3. Acne treatment: Retinol is effective in treating acne as it helps prevent pores from becoming clogged and reduces inflammation.
4. Discoloration and dark spots: It helps reduce dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone.

What does it improve on the skin?
• Wrinkles and signs of aging: By stimulating collagen production and cell renewal.
• Acne: Prevents pore blockages and reduces inflammation.
• Dark spots and uneven tone: Helps eliminate dead skin cells and reduces the appearance of spots.
• Texture and softness: Improves skin smoothness and radiance by boosting cell renewal.

Generally, retinol concentrations found in cosmetic products range from 0.01% to 1%. Here’s a breakdown of the most common concentrations and their effectiveness:

Low concentrations (0.01% – 0.05%):

1. They are milder and recommended for sensitive skin or for those who haven’t used retinol before.
2. They may offer modest improvements in skin texture and tone, but the results for wrinkles may be slower and less pronounced.

Medium concentrations (0.1% – 0.5%):

1. At these concentrations, retinol starts to have a more significant impact on reducing fine lines and improving skin texture.
2. It helps increase collagen production and accelerate cell renewal, which can visibly reduce wrinkles with consistent use.

High concentrations (0.5% – 1%):

1. These are more effective for treating deeper wrinkles and advanced signs of aging.
2. However, at these concentrations, retinol may cause more irritation or dryness, so it’s recommended to start with a lower concentration if you’ve never used retinol before.

How to use it?
Retinol should be gradually introduced into your skincare routine. Here are some recommendations for use:

1. Frequency: Start by using it 2-3 times a week, then increase frequency if your skin tolerates it well.
2. Night application: Retinol should be applied at night, as it can increase sun sensitivity.
3. Placement in the routine: Apply after cleansing the face and before applying moisturizer.
4. Sun protection: Since retinol can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, it is essential to use sunscreen during the day.

Although it may seem better to have multiple retinol products to tackle your wrinkles, dark spots, and acne, professionals advise against this. Multiple retinol products in your skincare routine could lead to dryness, redness, or itchiness of the skin, leaving irritated flaky patches

Who should use it?
Retinol is suitable for individuals with:
• Signs of aging: Such as wrinkles and fine lines.
• Acne: For those with mild to moderate acne.
• Dull or uneven skin texture: To improve skin radiance and smoothness.

Who should not use it?
Retinol is not recommended for:
• Sensitive skin: People with very sensitive skin may experience irritation, redness, or peeling.
• Pregnancy and breastfeeding: It is recommended to avoid using retinol during pregnancy or breastfeeding due to its potential effects on the fetus or baby.
• Dry or very irritated skin: If your skin is too irritated or dry, it’s better to avoid using retinol or look for gentler formulas.

Are there alternatives to retinol?
Yes, there are gentler alternatives that offer similar benefits:

Natural Retinoids (Bakuchiol):

1. Benefits: Bakuchiol is a plant-based compound considered a “natural retinol.” It is less irritating than retinol and has similar effects on the skin, reducing wrinkles and promoting cell renewal.
2. How it works: It stimulates collagen production and improves skin firmness without the irritation side effects of retinol.
3. Ideal for: Those with sensitive skin or those who can’t tolerate retinol.

Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin):

1. It is a more potent version of vitamin A and is used under prescription, ideal for severe acne or aging cases.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA):

1. Benefits: These acids exfoliate the skin, promoting cell renewal and improving skin texture. AHAs (like glycolic acid) work on the surface layer, while BHAs (like salicylic acid) penetrate pores.
2. How it works: They help eliminate dead skin cells, improve radiance, and reduce fine lines.
3. Ideal for: Dull, rough-textured skin or enlarged pores.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3):

1. Benefits: Improves skin elasticity, reduces inflammation, and diminishes the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
2. How it works: Niacinamide increases ceramide production, enhancing the skin barrier and reducing signs of aging.
3. Ideal for: Sensitive skin or those prone to rosacea, and for reducing dark spots.

Hyaluronic Acid:

1. Benefits: Deeply hydrates the skin, helping to smooth fine lines by keeping the skin plump and hydrated.
2. How it works: Hyaluronic acid attracts water to the skin, improving elasticity and firmness, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
3. Ideal for: Dry or dehydrated skin.

Vitamin C:

1. Benefits: A potent antioxidant that helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles by stimulating collagen production.
2. How it works: Vitamin C combats free radicals, which are responsible for cellular aging, while also brightening the skin, reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
3. Ideal for: Improving skin tone and combating sun damage.

Peptides:

1. Benefits: Stimulate collagen and elastin production, improving skin firmness and reducing wrinkles.
2. How it works: Peptides are chains of amino acids that penetrate the skin to help repair and strengthen the skin barrier, promoting younger, firmer skin.
3. Ideal for: Aging skin or skin with loss of firmness.

Essential and Natural Oils (Examples: Rosehip oil, argan oil, jojoba oil):

1. Benefits: Hydrate, nourish, and regenerate the skin, helping to reduce wrinkles and scars.
2. How it works: Oils contain antioxidants and essential fatty acids that nourish the skin and improve its elasticity.
3. Ideal for: Dry and aging skin.

Retinol is incredibly effective, but it’s important to use it correctly and be aware of its potential effects on your skin. If you have any doubts, it’s recommended to consult a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine.

If you would like to book a consultation or have any further enquiries, please feel free to reach out to the clinic here.